In the touristy Saint-Ouen flea market, not far from the Stade de France where athletes will compete in this summer’s Paris Olympics, police officers swarmed in at dawn on April 3 and shut down 11 stores selling counterfeit bags and shoes.
They confiscated 63,000 items of clothing, shoes and leather goods, including fake Louis Vuitton and Nike products, and threw them into garbage compactor trucks on the spot. Ten people were arrested. Michel Lavaud, police security chief for the Seine-Saint-Denis suburb that will host Paris 2024 athletics and swimming events as well as the closing ceremony, described the operation as part of a pre-Olympics crackdown on knockoffs.
Fake fashion is big business. Counterfeit branded clothing alone is estimated to have cost companies in France 1.7 billion euros ($1.83 billion) in lost sales on average each year between 2018 and 2021, according to the European Union Intellectual Property Office. “We’ve been talking about the problem of counterfeits for the last two years,” Lavaud said, adding the police was looking to intensify its efforts. The raid in the world’s fashion capital bears some similarity to clean-ups carried out by previous Olympic hosts like Beijing in 2008, which had mixed results, as well as London in 2012 and Rio in 2016.
But the police crackdown on street merchants in Seine-Saint-Denis, where one in three lives in poverty according to French national statistics, has drawn criticism for pushing people already in economically precarious situations into further difficulty. Axel Wilmort, a researcher with French social science institute for urban studies LAVUE, said he had noticed a sharp increase in police presence and repression of informal market sellers on the outskirts of Paris over the last three months, with frequent police patrols and the installation of metal barriers preventing vendors from setting up stalls.
“There is a will to erase all signs of precarity, poverty and undesirables,” he said, adding that law enforcement officers often do not differentiate between counterfeit sellers and vendors of legal second-hand wares. Police raids on informal merchants near Paris’ iconic Montmartre hillside have multiplied since February, with 10 carried out over four days in early June to dismantle a market of around 1,000 sellers, according to a letter from the district mayor to the interior minister. Seventy tonnes of products were destroyed in March alone, the letter said.
