Fashion retailer H&M is set to use artificial intelligence (AI) to create digital twins of 30 models. It says it will use the AI doppelgangers in some social media posts and marketing in the place of humans, if given permission by models. “We are curious to explore how to showcase our fashion in new creative ways – and embrace the benefits of new technology – while staying true to our commitment to personal style,” said its Chief Creative Officer Jörgen Andersson in a statement.
Despite H&M’s claim it would not change its “human-centric approach” some fear the move could impact other models, photographers and make-up artists. American influencer Morgan Riddle called H&M’s move “shameful” in a post on her Instagram stories. “RIP to all the other jobs on shoot sets that this will take away,” she posted.
The Swedish fashion giant, which also operates Arket, Cos, Monki, & Other Stories and Weekday, says it has more than 4,000 stores worldwide across 75 markets. H&M told a media outlet that models would retain rights over their digital replicas and their use by the company and other brands for purposes such as marketing. Its images are likely to be initially used in social media posts, with watermarks that make their AI use clear, it added.
The brand also said models would be compensated for use of their digital twins in a similar way to current arrangements – which sees them paid for use of their images based on rates agreed by their agent.
Paul W Fleming, General Secretary of Trade Union Equity – which represents fashion models in the UK – said models having full control over their likeness and fair pay for its use was “vital”. “Whilst we support brands who appear to be moving in this direction, this must be backed up by the widespread adoption of AI protections in union agreements and legislation that protects workers’ rights,” he said.
Equity, like many other trade unions representing performers and creatives, has been campaigning for better protections for workers amid an explosion of AI-generated content and initiatives online.
“Unfortunately, the current landscape has little to no such protections,” Fleming added, citing mass, illegal scraping of their model members’ work by big tech and AI developers without their consent.
Fashion firms including Hugo Boss and Levi Strauss & Co have also dabbled in using generative AI for product images. Denim giant Levi’s said in 2023 it would trial the use of AI-generated model images as a way to “increase diversity”. Following criticism, it clarified it would not scale back live photoshoots with models.
